A hostess pouring oil tea at a low wooden table in a timber homestay, the lit drum tower outside

Visit

Come as
a guest.

Kam villages are not museums. They are homes — and few places in the world welcome a visitor with as much song and rice wine.

Most visitors base themselves in one large village, then walk or drive to smaller ones nearby. Give it time: the best moments — a choir practising in the drum tower, a feast that spills into the lane — are never on a schedule.

Where to go

Six places to start.

A large Kam village around a drum tower in a misty valley

Liping County, Guizhou

Zhaoxing

One of the largest Kam villages: five clans, five drum towers, five flower bridges and five opera stages along one river.

Flooded rice terraces curving down a mountainside to a Kam village at sunrise

Liping County, Guizhou

Tang’an

A small hilltop village above Zhaoxing, ringed by terraces and home to one of Guizhou’s China–Norway ecomuseums.

Kam women in festival dress singing

Congjiang County, Guizhou

Xiaohuang

A village famed across China for its Grand Song choirs.

Ducks swimming between rice stalks with a carp below

Guizhou

Congjiang

Terraced hill country where rice, fish and ducks still share the same water — a recognised world agricultural heritage site.

A long covered bridge with pagoda pavilions over a river

Sanjiang County, Guangxi

Chengyang

Eight villages along the Linxi River, joined by the most famous wind-and-rain bridge of all.

A Kam village at night with a lantern-lit drum tower by the river

Liping County, Guizhou

Diping

Its wind-and-rain bridge of 1882 was swept away by a flood in 2004 — and rebuilt with timbers villagers recovered downstream.

When to go

Every season sings.

Spring · Mar–May

Water and mirrors

In April and May the terraces are flooded and planted, and the fields reflect the sky.

Summer · Jun–Aug

Green and growing

Fish and ducklings in the paddies. Expect heat and heavy rain.

Autumn · Sep–Nov

Gold

From September into October the terraces turn gold and sticky rice dries on racks.

Winter · Dec–Feb

Festivals

Kam New Year falls late in the lunar year; then come the Chinese New Year, lusheng gatherings and, in early spring, the Sama festival for Sa Sui.

A high-speed train crossing a viaduct above a Kam village and rice terraces

Getting there

Hours, not days.

Since 2014 the Guiyang–Guangzhou high-speed railway has cut straight through Kam country, with stations at Congjiang and Sanjiang South. Zhaoxing is a short ride from Congjiang station; buses and taxis run up the valleys to the other villages.

A long-table village feast under red lanterns

Stay and eat

Sleep in a timber house.

Family-run guesthouses in the larger villages offer rooms in traditional timber houses. Try oil tea in the morning, sour fish and sticky rice at night — and if a long-table feast is laid in the lane, you may well be invited to sit.

Be a good guest

A few things to know.

  1. Expect to be stopped at the gate.At festivals, singers may block the path and offer you rice wine. Accept a sip, smile — and try a song back.
  2. Ask before you photograph people.A gesture and a smile is enough. Elders, children and anyone in prayer deserve a yes first.
  3. Leave the Sa altar in peace.The stone altars of Sa Sui and the trees around them are sacred. Don’t climb, touch or pose on them.
  4. The drum tower is a living room.Sit and listen, but don’t beat the drum or occupy the fire as a stage.
  5. Buy from the maker.Brocade, embroidery, silver and lucky flowers are best bought from the people who made them.

On the map

Where the villages are.

Where the Kam live Map of the border region of Guizhou, Hunan and Guangxi. Highlighted: Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture and the Dong autonomous counties of Yuping, Xinhuang, Zhijiang, Jingzhou, Tongdao and Sanjiang. Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture · 黔东南苗族侗族自治州 Yuping Dong Autonomous County · 玉屏侗族自治县 Xinhuang Dong Autonomous County · 新晃侗族自治县 Zhijiang Dong Autonomous County · 芷江侗族自治县 Jingzhou Miao and Dong Autonomous County · 靖州苗族侗族自治县 Tongdao Dong Autonomous County · 通道侗族自治县 Sanjiang Dong Autonomous County · 三江侗族自治县 Guizhou 47.2% of all Kam Hunan 24.8% of all Kam Guangxi 10.4% of all Kam Yuping Xinhuang Zhijiang Jingzhou Tongdao Sanjiang Qiandongnan Guiyang Kaili Huaihua Guilin Zhaoxing Xiaohuang Congjiang Chengyang